PART 1  Date: Tue, 05 Jan 1999 09:53:24 PST

Jambo   Bahari
(Hello) (How are you)

Wow where to begin?
It'b been 11 days in Africa (or it was when I first began to compose
this) and I already have too much to share in just one email - but I'll
get started anyway - here goes....

Nairobi (Kenya) where I flew into from London is dirty, dusty, poor,
full of shanty shacks and a melting pot of nationalities.  But the
people are friendly and quick to flash you a wide, white tooth filled
grin.

On our truck we have 15 girls & 8 guys.  Mostly Aussies, Kiwis but one
English girl and one Danish couple.  Everyone is basically between the
ages of 20 and 30.  Some are hard core travellersand some first time
campers.  All in all a very interesting mix of personalities.

Our aim was to get as quickly as possible to the Serengeti so we left
Kenya after 2 days.  The drive from Nairobi to Arusha (Tanzania) is a
trip of about 300k's but took 7hrs!!  The roads are a nightmare and the
truck is as bumpy as hell.  If the boys aren't careful when they leave
their seats over a bump they come down on the seat joins and seriously
limit their ability to smile or father children.  As for us girls we'll
be able to tie our bosoms inbows by the end of 6 wks!!

Tanzania is one of Africa's poorest countries and Arusha is Tanzania's
Safari capital. Around 1 million people live in shanty shacks and run
down conrete apartments - where does all that safari income go?

After fuelling up and buying general supplies we headed back to our
campsite (snake farm outside town) along the main road filled with pot
holes, people and animals and a dead man.  He was lying face up and his
eyese, nose and mouth were filled with dust and hiw whole body was caked
in thick grey road dirt.  No-one gave him a second glance as they walked
by except for a small boy sitting off to one side looking very lost and
confused. Life is cheap and often short in Africa.

That afternoon we swopped the truck for 4 4WD's for a 3 day safari.
After hours of driving across the most incredibly bad roads we climbed
into the mountains - rich with volcanic dirt.  We camped that night ina
town called Karatu and had our first hot shower in days. Yipee!

The next day we struck camp and headed up to the edge of the Ngorongoro
Crater and then down into Masai country where cattle and zebra grace
side by side.  We stopped at a traditional Masai village where we were
greeted by song and dance. A few of us were invited into their huts made
of sticks, mud and dung.  Inside is incredibly dark and tiny and in the
space of your average bathroom, they house 5 adults and children and
baby goats.  It smells strongly of body odour and it's a little
claustrophobic but the bed made of sticks and covered in cowhide was
very comfortable and your senses soon adjust to the dark and smell.
Bubbling in the middle of the floor was a bowl of goats milk porridge
for the children... yummy....

In the centre of the circular compound of 23 huts was the corale for the
cattle and a path between the huts was dotted with spears sticking out
of the ground ready to be used in defence.  One of the men had killed 3
lions. He was a strikingly handsome warrior.  Tall, wiry, beautifully
dressed in a red blanket with large bone earings.  (For those of you who
are wondering - no I didn't peak to see if the saying is true - but he
did have VERY big feet... hee hee).

The compound was incredibly hot and dusty and flies were crawling around
the faces of the women and children and mostly trying to find shade and
moisture where possible - it seems that up our noses was the best place
to find both! The village children were tiny, shy and curious and
fascinated by their reflection in our sunglasses.

Outside the compound and about 30 metres from the entrance is a small
enclosure of loosley fitted sticks with a "long drop" squat hole inside.
Unfortunately I didn't realise until too late that from the compound you
can see everything!  Somone on this truck has a photo of my big white
bottom - but no-one is owning up!

The rest of the day we spent driving across the Serengeti spotting game
- AWESOME! We saw lots of Thomson & Grants gazelle and 1000's of zebra.
We spotted a couple of dik dik, warthog, wildebeest, hyena, ostrich and
topi antelope.  We got very close to a family of cheetah resting under a
tree - they are so beautiful.  We watched as 2 male gazelle fought for a
mate.  Hippos lazing in a lagoon. Several elephant, giraffe nibbling
gracefully at the tops of trees, while mischievous baboons played chase
across our path.

The best part of the day was a close encounter with 2 lions and a
lioness resting under a large acacia tree.  As we sat admiring them the
lioness suddenly stood and walked between our 4WD's and hid herself
downwind from a herd of zebra on the move.  Once she disappeared the
youngest and largest male stood, shook out his mane (to the oohs & ahs
of the crowd) and confidently strided after the female. Those of us
hanging out of windows or leaning precariously through the observation
roof, watched warily - we'd been warned that a hungry lion doesn't think
twice about leaping into a truck - we were all considered prey.

That night we free camped in the bush with only our tents for
protection.  Our guides slept in the trucks in case lions came into camp
and they would have to drive up to each tent and get us to leap to
safety.  During the night we heard zebra baying in the near distance,
hyena prowling around the campsite and a lion grown right next to the
tent - it was an amazing night.

Next morning after a quick head count we struck camp and headed back
across the Serengeti towards the crater.  After a steep descent to the
floor of the carter we came across large herds of wildebeest and impala.
Cheetahs hid in the long grass, huge kori bustards and secretary birds
stalked their prey, little black faced monkeys played in the few trees,
rhinos baked in the shimmering distance, vultures picked clean a
wildebeest carcas as a large lion pride lazed in the shade.

We spotted an elephant having a mud bath so Zoya our driver, drove the
4WD as close as he dared and we sat and watched wide eyed. Ele walked
past our truck to start eating the reeds at the edge of the lagoon so we
climbed out of the trucks, broke out our lunch bags and got comfy at the
edge of the water.  As soon as we broke open our sandwiches about 10
huge falcons appeared circling above our heads.  Many of the spectators
were swooped - their sandwiches snatched from  their fingers by razor
sharp talons. It was frightening but incredible at the same time.

When Ele was finished eating he started walking towards us on the bank
and scared the pants off all of us.  He turned within metres of us all
standing frozen on the bank and continued off and away along the edge of
the lagoon.  In the water behind him hippos blew steam from their
nostrils and the falcons circled above.  I had to pinch myself to see if
I was awake. The photos should be amazing.

          ....... to be continued......

[I have been trying to get to a cheap and fast internet site for weeks
now - I have so much more to share with you all - more of the adventure
coming to you soon - love to all - Nickers].

PART 2  Date:  Thu, 07 Jan 1999 04:46:57 PST

In the water behind him hippos blew steam from their nostrils and the
falcons circled above.  I had to pinch myself to see if I was awake. The
photos should be amazing.

          .....continued......

We camped late that night back in Arusha and headed out early the next
morning on a 12hr truck ride to the capital of Tanzaniza - DAR ES
SALAAM.  Along the way we'd seen the wrecks of 3 semi trailers and 2
separate recent accidents - a semi in a ditch with the driver sitting in
the shade waiting for help and later a bus load of people flipped over
only minutes before we got there - the passengers sat on the side of the
road looking dazed and confused.

Our campsite in Dar es Salaam was right on the beach and big signs were
posted at the edge of the camp saying "WARNING - Muggers beyond this
point". The weather now that we were down at sea leave was hot and
sticky but we all slept really well with the peaceful sound of the waves
against the shore.
 
The next day (Fri 11 Dec) we headed into Dar to buy ferry tickets to
ZANZIBAR!  Woo Hoo!! and wondered around town until our ferry was due to
leave.  Scoffed the yummiest ice cream on the planet and cursed Africa
because the power was out at the internet cafe - oh the hardships of
travel... hee hee  From the ferry (2½hrs long) we spotted a pod of
dolphins off to the right chasing fish and playing in our wake.

Zanzibar - wow what a place!  I'm not sure what I expected but this
isn't quite the romantic vision I had - NAIVE!!  The old stone town is
the most interesting and historical part.  Winding streets, old colonial
buildings, Arab influenced big brass studded doors and African style
carved door frames.  There are a lot of touts hassling the tourists and
security is a big problem - pick pockets and muggings are common.

There is an excellent street market at nights where every manner of
fresh seafood can be bought and prepared at very cheap prices.  It was
great fun.  We spent a couple of nights here soaking up the atmosphere
and doing a spice tour.  You walk through the different spice
plantations and walk around with a guide to see how the workers live,
grow & harvest the spices.

Once you drive outside the town, like most other countries all over the
world the people seem more relaxed, friendly and approachable. The whole
island is lush green and fertile red - volcanic soil.  The people are
poor and live mainly in simple mud brick huts with woven roofs but on
the whole seem happy and content.

....I'm back in Zanzibar town now after spending 3 fabulous days on
NUNGWI Beach on the North West of the Island.  This is paradise!  Our
little place was called KENDWA ROCKS and we slept in hand woven triangle
huts called bandas. Our beds are traditional rope beds and the floor is
covered in handwoven grass mats on the sand of the beach.  Crabs,
scorpions and other wildlife scurry across the floor and there is no
electricity.  The beach stretches for miles in each direction in a pure
white line.  The water is a perfect blue green. Traditional Dow sail
boats glide along and on the horizon are the palm tree covered deserted
islands that dreams are made of.  A local fisherman approaches you each
day with a huge squid or other catch of the day for sale and we sit
around a small grass roofed bar drinking fresh coconut cocktails as the
sun sets.  Before bed we lay our sarongs on the soft warm sand and count
shooting stars.

Tonight I'm lying in a small cheap hotel on an antique single four
poster bed with a pure white netting canopy.  The air conditioner is
humming and I'm about to enjoy my last hot shower for many weeks to
come.  Tomorrow is back by ferry to Dar es Salaam and then 2 days of
constant travel by truck to MALAWI.

KWAHERI & HAKUNA MUTATA
(Goodbye & No Worries)

          ....... to be continued......